When we started planning our trip to Memphis, an obvious question had to be asked - Graceland or no Graceland? Friends who had been there told us to avoid it like the plague. It was a tacky tourist trap and not worth our time. But as a kid who grew up in Tennessee, it was a place I had always wanted to see. How could I pass up a chance to see the King's castle?
We made the six-hour drive from Knoxville to Memphis in the middle of the night and arrived at Graceland before the sun came up. One of the friendly security guards gave us a little tip. He told us that at 7:30, the gates to the compound would open and we would virtually have the grounds to ourselves. After killing some time driving around the neighborhood, we made it back just as the famous music note gates were opening for the day. A handful of tourists made the trek with us up the drive and to the Meditation Garden, where Elvis Presley and his parents are buried. It was kind of surreal being there with hardly anyone on the property. With the exception of a few cameras clicking and the sound of a leaf blower in the distance, the grounds of Graceland were quiet and provided the most devout fans a chance to pay their respects.
The visitor's complex across the street from Graceland eventually opened and we walked up to the ticket window. To see the inside of the mansion alone costs $30. Pay four-dollars more and you get to tour other exhibits like Elvis' automobile museum and his two airplanes. I had always wanted to see the "Lisa Marie," so paying the extra four-dollars was no big deal. But we did have to question whether it was worth waiting nearly two hours for the mansion tour. (It was apparently Girl Scout Day and they had consumed all the early tickets for a busy Saturday in March.) We had planned on being done with Graceland by noon and had more important things to do in downtown Memphis...like eating...at Huey's. After a few minutes of deliberation, we decided to pony up the cash and wait for the eleven o'clock tour. How could we come all this way and not see the inside of Elvis' home?
To pass the time, we checked out many of the Elvis-themed gift shops and struck up conversations with some of the employees. Many of them have worked there for more than 20 years and were a wealth of knowledge about Memphis. They really seemed to like what they were doing and took pride in having the cultural landmark in their backyard. Just like we had never been to Memphis, the workers had never been to Knoxville. So we traded advice on what to visit in the respective towns. We got some good tips in the process.
We made a loop through the Auto Museum where nearly two dozen of Elvis' toys are housed, including the famed 1955 Pink Cadillac which he gave to his mother Gladys as a gift. Then it was off to see the planes in a neighboring courtyard. Some people may not know that Elvis actually owned two aircraft. Of course there was the "Lisa Marie," a Convair 880 jet which he purchased in April 1975 for $250,000 and customized to be a flying Graceland. You can see his plush sleeping quarters, a teak-finished conference room and an executive bathroom complete with gold-plated faucets. Lesser known is the much smaller Lockheed JetStar aircraft which Elvis purchased in September 1975 for nearly $900,000. Outfitted with bright yellow seats, Elvis used the "Hound Dog II" while he waited on the other plane to be refurbished. Following Elvis' death in 1977, both jets were sold by the family. Realizing their historical value, Elvis Presley Enterprises bought the planes back in the early 80s and parked them on the grounds at Graceland.
Before we knew it, it was time to board the bus for the trip across the street to the mansion. Waiting in the queue area reminded me of standing in line for a ride at Disney World. It was set up very similar to the visitor's complex at the Kennedy Space Center in Florida. Wait in line, get your picture taken and wait in line some more. We were then given a set of headphones which provides information as you travel through the house and grounds. This is when we knew we were bona fide tourists.
The tour itself is very hands-off. No touching, no video or audio recording devices allowed. Visitors can take photos as long as the flash is turned off. You're told the mansion is just how Elvis left it on the day he died and they do everything they can to preserve the furnishings. Ropes are in place to keep guests at bay, so don't even think about sitting where Elvis sat.
As you listen to the narration through your headset, you get to see all the famous rooms like the Music Room, the wood-paneled kitchen, the TV Room and the Jungle Room. If you're slightly claustrophobic like me and don't like being herded like cattle, the mansion tour might not be for you. On busy days, it provides no time to linger and absorb the "greatness that was Elvis." By the time we got to the Trophy Room where most of Elvis' gold records are kept, I was over all the people and ready to go. We quickly passed through the crowded Meditation Garden and boarded the bus for the trip back across Elvis Presley Boulevard.
Our Platinum Tour tickets included admission to some special exhibits at the visitor's complex. Coming on the heels of our theme park-like experience at the mansion, we reluctantly decided to walk through the different buildings to see yet more Elvis memorabilia. This stuff might have been interesting, IF you could have gotten close enough to have seen it. The people who weren't at the mansion were apparently here. Tons of people, and they all had their noses pressed up to the glass like they had never seen a sequined jumpsuit before. We pushed through to look at some items, but mostly just kept walking.
By 12:30, we were Elvised out and ready to get the party started on Beale Street. After all the money we spent on tickets, ironically the best part of Graceland for us was free. Getting there before all the tourists at 7:30 and walking up to the Meditation Garden was plenty of Elvis for us. That's what I'd recommend for anyone who's less than a hardcore Elvis fan. It was a once-in-a-lifetime experience that I'll always remember, but don't care to repeat.
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